surf spots are like people. maybe even are people. some have solid foundations, some shifty. some let their environments throw them into a tantrum, others reliable in the stormiest weather. some of them are gazed upon with awe. some are disregarded immediately because of poor reputation. terrible news. surf spots are people, or are like people. and we make friends with them, or they leave us with a poor taste in our mouths… or we forget them quickly. some never. you know what happened last time i hung out with that surf spot? that surf spot is amazing… etc.
some we fall in love with and spend our lives trying to understand and keep that love. sometimes unrequited. sometimes. some of these people are terribly moody. on their best day and behavior, a golden example of what a person can be. on those bad days, moody and salty, stay away from them. but you can’t. usually. however. those kind of people, and surf spots, are the best we can meet. they teach us and can show us little shiny glimpses of beauty, or remind us that it ain’t all good, all the time. they can be our best friends. like people. or surf spots. — Chaddy.